Six Hours in Philadelphia

While its tempting to drive over the Bay Bridge to Washington DC’s premier museums, particularly since most of them offer free admission, connoisseurs would more than likely tell you to head north to Philadelphia for an afternoon of art on a hot summer day.

The City of Brotherly Love remains at its heart the quintessential northeastern urban center, complete with bad drivers, potholes, and classic grime, but Philadelphia has decidedly become more upscale over the last few years, with outstanding restaurants, sophisticated shopping, and effective public transportation. All of which makes it a perfect place to get an urban fix in a relatively short period of time, and yet be home before sunset.

Here are the Spy’s recommendations:

Listen to PRI’s Short Stories on the trip north.  Grab your iPod and download the latest installment of Public Radio International’s fantastic collection of American short stories recorded in New York’s Symphony Space.  Nothing makes a drive more enjoyable than a short story by Eudora Welty or Shirley Jackson as you weave around Middletown or Wilmington.

Visit the Philadelphia Musuem of Art. Built in 1928, the PMA is one of the great treasures of American culture, with an exceptional collection of work by Eakins, Brancusi, Braque, Matisse, and Picasso as well as the world’s most extensive collected work of Marcel Duchamp.

One of the reasons the Philadelphia museum has such a remarkable reputation was the gifted leadership of director Anne d’Harnoncourt over the last four decades who unexpectedly died of a heart attack in June 2008 at the age of 64.  The Museum has honored d’Harnoncourt with a special tribute highlighting her contributions which ends July 19.

Perhaps one of her finest moments was leading an effort to purchase Eakins’ masterpeice, The Gross Clinic, which is considered to be greatest American painting of the nineteenth century.  It is not to be missed.

Have lunch at London Grill.  While there are better places to dine in the city, you can’t beat the London Grill for convenience.  A five-minute walk from the PMA and you’ll have a perfect burger, a classic outdoor café, and an excellent selection of regional beers.

Catch a film. Despite being overshadowed by the Big Apple to the north, Philadelphia is a real film city, complete with an excellent film festival and a number of art house venues. One of the best is Ritz at the Bourse, which offers matinee shows for $6.00 for first run independent films.

Have High Tea. Regardless how hot it might be outside, nothing beats the high tea at The Four Seasons Hotel’s Swann Lounge.  Tea sippers can choose between “Social Tea” and “Royal Tea,” both of which include tea, scones, finger sandwiches, and desserts and fruit tartlets. The “Royal Tea” includes the addition of an alcoholic beverage like sparkling wine. Monday-Saturday, 3:00-4:30 p.m.; 1 Logan Square, (215) 963-1500.